Bottom Line Calculation

I have received a few emails and comments on the recent 'Bottom Line' addition to the end of my posts. I decided to start doing that because I see on a lot of other blogs and message boards different discussions about whether or not sewing is less expensive than buying off the rack. In some cases it is but not always. Speaking for myself I sew because I enjoy making my own clothes. I have the patience and the ability to learn the craft and the journey is one that I am enjoying immensely.
I recall when I first started out, I knew to only buy patterns on sale and to look for coupons and sales on fabric, notions, etc. I developed a size-able stash of fabrics that I purchased just because they were on sale and had no idea what to use them for. I don't really want to think about how much money that I spent doing that.
As I have continue to get better at sewing and other crafts, I am making an effort to keep track of how much I spend on fabrics, yarn, etc. Not to justify the cost or weigh the pros and cons of sewing but just to give my readers an idea of what it cost me to make certain things. Sewing can be rewarding and gratifying but for some on a limited budget I think it is important to know that it can cost you as little or as much as you want it to.
You may also have seen my sewing plans from a few posts back. I am very much a visual learner and I found this to be very helpful as I laid out my sewing plans for the next few weeks. This has also been good as it is making me think twice before buying some fabric that catches my eye. I have been doing well with sewing from my stash but I don't want it to get as bad as it was at one point.
So to sum up a long post, my decision to add the 'Bottom Line' to my posts started out being just for me but I am glad that others are enjoying it as well.

McCall 5591 View A

Pattern Description: Mid-knee length, pleated skirts have faced yoke and back zipper closure

I made a modified version of view A. Originally view A calls for slash front pockets with band and contrasting lower band, however I omitted the contrasting lower band.

Pattern Sizing: 6-22. I cut a straight 14 but added length to the pattern piece since I was omitting the contrast.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Very much so.

Were the instructions easy to follow? I honestly did not look at the instructions when it came to sewing. I glanced at them but you can pretty much look at the drawings and see what to do. Pleats can be intimidating/time consuming but this weren't all that bad. I also like how there were separate instructions for each view instead of skipping around between views like I have seen lately.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I did not have any dislikes with this pattern. It went together fairly quickly and without issues which is always great. I really like the pleats on this skirt and the overall effect they had for this very cute skirt. I also like the fact that I had no make no alterations to this skirt as far as fitting was considered. Another plus.


Fabric Used: A cotton sateen with just a hint of stretch from Fabric.com. It was called 'Cotton Sateen Jackie Peach'

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: As previously stated I omitted the contrasting band from view A. I could have just as easily made view B but I liked the pockets from A. In retrospect I probably eliminated one of the key design elements but at the same time I wanted to keep it simple. I felt this print was fine on it's own and adding a solid contrast made it too bottom heavy and not flattering on my figure/height. I used a a medium-weight interfacing for the yoke. I mention that because somehow the yoke-facing ended up being a good 1 1/2 inches shorter after I faced it which was really odd. Because of that I ended up doing a lapped zipper in the back. It still turned out very well. The only thing is that my pleats aren't symmetrical in the back but no one should be staring at my behind anyway so they shouldn't notice. I am patting myself on the back for being able to make a design change on the fly and not get frustrated.

I also top-stitched the yoke instead of under-stitching.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I may break this out again next spring when I need some instant gratification, but as for now it is being retired as a move on to my fall/winter wardrobe. I would recommend this to others because I found it to be a quick and simple project.

Conclusion: I am pleased with my result and would recommend this pattern. It definitely allows you to quickly add to your spring/summer wardrobe.

Bottom Line:
Fabric-Cotton Sateen Jackie Peach 1.5 yds at $2.49=3.74
Zipper-$1.49
Notions-stash
Total=$5.23

Fall/Winter Wardrobe Plans

I have started to shift towards planning my fall/winter wardrobe. I know I am late but hey....
Anyway, I have laid out a plan to meet my goal of making 50% of my wardrobe for the upcoming seasons. Part of that it to make simple wardrobe staples likes pants and skirts and interchangeable tops. I have already planned out one set revolving around a lightweight grey suiting that I picked up recently. It will be fairly easy to change out tops for different looks. Here is what I have so far:


Most, if not all of the focal pieces, will be in the grey suiting. I already have a white dress shirt as well as some basic knit tops to add to the mix.

I have a similar plan with a medium-weight navy twill:

There are a couple of other sportswear jackets and tunics that I have my eye on but no concrete plans yet.
Currently I am beginning work on B4657 for a wedding that is in mid September. I have already cut it out in a deep burgundy georgette. There are only a couple of reviews on PR that say it is time consuming and takes a great deal of patience. I already have a fall back plan in V8574 in this print:



When I purchased the fabric I was going to make view B which is the longer version but I decided to go with the shorter version and use the remaining fabric to make a top.

Fabric Depot

We just returned from our trip to the Pacific Northwest and while I enjoyed visiting the area, one of the highlights has to be my trip to Fabric Depot. My DH actually spotted the brochure when we were checking into our hotel and pointed it out to me. Because we didn't have much planned for our first day we were able to stop by. You should have seen me. I was walking around with saucer-like eyes and grinning like a cheshire cat. I vaguely recall DH saying don't go crazy in here. He was quite the tropper as he followed me around the store pushing a cart. At one point he just sat at the pattern table and took a nap. He perked up a little when he saw he wasn't the only Husband following his Wife around the fabric store. :-)



They have a HUGE selection of fabrics they are of very good quality. I controlled myself and only bought a cut of a sweater knit and some twill, as well as a couple of skeins of yarn but that was only because I wasn't sure how much I could squeeze into my luggage.
Not only was the selection huge, the quality great, on sale for 30%, but the staff was very helpful and friendly as well. I have since discovered that you can order online via their website. I will never look at Hancock and Joann's the same again.

Simplicity 2923

Pattern Description: Misses Shirt-Dresses and Belt Project Runway Collection

For my dress I sewed the bodice with stand collar, puff sleeve with band, and slim skirt

Pattern Sizing: 6-24. I have no idea what size my dress ended up being. I cut a 16 in the hips and 14 bodice but took it in a lot all over.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? The jury is still out.

Were the instructions easy to follow? The instructions were easy to follow, I just had issues making alterations to fit my new figure. I had cut this out months ago after my fabric arrived- Remember this post?

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? First it was hard to know how much fabric to purchase since you can mix and match nearly every aspect of this dress to create a look for you. I purchased 3.5 yards and had over a yard left over. I am sure I can make something else with it but that was still annoying.
I liked the princess seams on the bodice and I originally liked the idea of having pockets on my shirt dress. In the end the pockets made me look extra wide which is never a good look. I disliked how difficult it was (for me anyway) to match up my bodice and skirt seams on the side being that they were different sizes.
Maybe I have a short neck but my stand collar just didn't seem to fit right on me. I honestly got frustrated with everything and was certainly not happy with how the finished product came out. Mostly because after all of the hard work, remeasuring, recutting, etc that it fits me like a sack. I added a belt which helps some but I noticed that in the back, my seam is lower and isn't covered by the belt. I am not sure how that happened.

Fabric Used:Chateau Cotton Poplin in Red purchased from fabric dot com.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I shortened the bodice and skirt per my usual. I wish I hadn't shortened the skirt or at least known/thought to adjust the back split accordingly. Although the skirt hits me just below the knee, the split is higher than I feel is appropriate for work. I ended up with more gathers in various places in my attempt to give the dress some shape. I was having so many issues with the fit that I didn't dare attempt to make button holes so I just hand-stitched 5 snaps on the inside.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I would not sew this again just because I didn't like the finished product or my difficulties with getting a good fit. From other reviews on PR others have had better results than I did. Personally I feel that while you can really make this dress your own, that there are just too many pieces to fit together for it to come out looking RTW. Part of the reason I started sewing was to give my wardrobe that custom fit and this as one of my few projects that was nowhere near that.

Conclusion: I am still wanting to make a shirtdress that is flattering for my figure and have decided to give McCall 5847 a try. It seems that the princess seams as well as cutting the bodice and skirt in one piece will produce better results for me. Of course I will post a review when I'm done. Perhaps someone with a bit more patience and creativity will or did have better results with this particular pattern than I did.

Bottom Line: Fabric: Purchased 3.5 yds at $2.49/yd but only used about 2

• 2 yds @ $2.49/yd=$4.98
• Notions: facing, thread, and snaps from my stash.

Total ~$6.00

Simplicity 2896

Pattern Description: Misses & Miss Petite Dress, Jacket, Pants, Shorts and Tie Belt

I made the dress which is view A.

Pattern Sizing: 6-24. I cut a a 16 in both the bust and hips. I ended up having to take it in several inches on the sides but that's because I am losing weight and keep forgetting to adjust accordingly.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes! I love the classic nature of this dress and how flattering it is. It is a simple dress that is really hard to goof up. I can see myself wearing this dress to work or a casual lunch.

Were the instructions easy to follow? I didn't actually follow the directions when it came to sewing but I did skim over them prior to sewing and they were very clear and easy to understand.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love how well drafted this pattern was and how easy it went together. Even after having to take the dress in about 1 1/2" on each side it still fits perfectly. I worked on this dress over the course of a few nights but you could easily knock it out in a few hours. I have no dislikes.

Fabric Used: A stretch sateen fabric purchased from fabric.com. It was labeled 'stretch cotton sateen mykah purple'

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I shortened the dress by a couple of inches which is usual for me. After hemming it hits right at the knee which is perfect. I also only used an 18" zipper instead of a 22". My gathers are in the center front instead of on each side. I tried to keep the circles lined up but realized it didn't really matter. I did a basic overlock stitch on the edge of the facing for a clean finish.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I do plan to sew this dress again in a color more suited for fall. I also plan to sew both the jacket and pants from this pattern since they have both gotten great reviews on PR.

Conclusion: A solid pattern that is a great wardrobe builder. I highly recommend it for ease of sewing, clear directions, and the classic garments you can make with it.

Bottom Line:

• Fabric=$3.98 (2 yds @ 1.99/yd)
• Zipper=$1.49
• Pattern=$.99
• Total ~$6.50

McCalls 5662

Pattern Description: Tunics A, D, tops B, C, E and dress F have self-faced middle sections and bodice variations; tunic A, top B has self-lined close-fitting upper front and purchased rings; tops B, E have gathered, draped middle section; top C, dress F have looped overlay; top E has three-quarter length sleeves gathered into cuffs; dress F has three-quarter length kimono sleeves.

I made view D.



Pattern Sizing: X-Small to X-Large. I cut a medium. It looks a little snug on Caroline here because I was attempting to stretch the fabric a little in the hip area before wearing it.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? For the most part yes. I recycled some fabric from a dress I knew I would never wear again. I loved the color and thought it would make a fabulous top for summer. Dealing with material that has already been cut can be a challenge but I think I did alright. I could not find any thread to match so I decided to use a contrasting cream thread around the neckline. It will match the cami I plan to wear under this top.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Ha! This top is not a difficult top to sew at all but the instructions left much to be desired. I would much rather have them copy and paste directions under each view so you could follow continuously rather than skip back and forth. I really could do without having smiling cut out faces of those two women. All the jumping around could get very frustrating/annoying.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? This pattern was very easy to sew. Despite my issues it still came out well and I am happy with the result. I will say that I would not dare wear this top without a camisole underneath.

Fabric Used: Some recycled coral matte jersey

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I had to play around with the pattern pieces to cut them out due to recycling the fabric. I somehow ended up with more room in the back piece than I did in the front. When I switched them around it looked so awkward that I turned it back around and put gathers in the center back. I also didn't add the facing piece to the midriff.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I would like to sew this again in a print fabric. Possibly in view E or F

Conclusion: Very easy top that could be worn anytime of the year depending on the view/fabric selection. It went together in only a couple of hours which was an added bonus. Would recommend.

Cost to make: Recycled fabric original price of $3/yd
Used roughly 1 1/2yds =$4.50


For the complete outfit I paired the top with a cream cami, jeans, and these shoes. Total cost of the outfit was under $30!