Tuesday, July 20, 2010

Coming off the bench

Lately I have had no motivation, no direction, no nothing when it came to sewing.  True I have been busy the past couple of months but in the beginning I was finding a little time here and there to whip up something.  Even with starting a new job, being more involved in my sorority, just being a super wife/daughter/friend/sister, I was still finding the time to sew.  And then suddenly it was all gone.  Why?  I destroyed the memory stick that held all of my sewing plans, data on my fabric purchases, as well as pictures for my portfolio, pattern wishlist, everything sewing related.  One minute it was sticking out of the side of my laptop, the next it was in pieces.  I was horrified.  It was all I could do not to cry. 

The pictures can easily be reproduced as I NEVER delete images from my camera memory card.  The spreadsheets and story boards are another story. 

So you know the bottom line calculation at the end of my posts?  Well I was able to do that because each and every time I bought a cut of fabric I noted it in this spreadsheet.  Yards purchased, price paid, a brief description, etc.  I even made notes on what garments I planned to sew with the fabric, any notes on fabric shortages/overages, etc.  You name it, I made note of it.  You would think that I would have backed up such an important file but sadly I did not.  I also saved pictures of every pattern I purchased.  That way I didn't have to rely on the website if the pattern were OOP.  All of my grand sewing plans for the year were on that memory stick and pooof gone in a flash. 

I've finally come to terms that I can't recover the files and trust me I've had every techie person I know including the Husband to try and nothing.  But I have to start again somewhere.  When I finally had enough courage to go in my studio yesterday, I noticed that butterick 5332 was sitting there all cut and pinned waiting to be stitched together.  I was calling my name, telling me it was time to come off the bench and get back in the sewing game.  So I sat down at my desk, turned on my machine and it was like I never left....


Monday, June 21, 2010

Quick Review: Simplicity 3503

Just a quick review of this pattern since I have made it before.

Pattern Description: Misses Day or Evening Dress in two lengths with bodice variations. I made view C which is full length with a halter neck



Pattern Sizing: Available in 6-22.  I cut a 12 based on previous experiences with this pattern running large.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes. I personally think the fabirc really makes the dress in this case, but I'm biased, lol.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Very. I have used this pattern once before and found this dress to be fairly simple to construct. I actually think this version was easier than view E which I made last time. (Previous review of E) The instructions seemed to be grouped in sets by bodice, midriff, then skirt so just follow the set that corresponds to y our view and you will be fine.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? As most reviews had indicated this pattern runs a little on the large size. I remembered having to take my last version in a few inches and so I kept that in mind this go round. That's not really a dislike but I thought it should be noted (again). I really liked how fast this went together-maybe 2 hours from start to finish.

P.S. I love my serger and rotary cutter!

Fabric Used: White Floral Print on Red "ITY" Stretch Jersey Knit purchased from Denver Fabrics.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:  I omitted the pockets and took about 3 inches off the hem.

It should also be noted I was able to make this dress with less than 2 1/2 of fabric. The envelope would lead you to buy 3 yards for the dress and lining. True I took off a few inches from the hem but I still had close to 1/2 yard left. Nothing I can really do with that little fabric but still.


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I plan to sew this ONE more time in view B for myself and that will be it. I've had success with this pattern and really really like it and would certainly recommend it to others.

Conclusion: A Best Pattern of 2009 so that says it all.

Bottom Line:

Fabric: 2.5 yds @ $2.35=$5.88

Notions: thread and elastic from my stash

Total: $5.88




Friday, June 18, 2010

Butterick 5454

It's about a week late but here is the review I promised of the dress I wore to graduation.

Pattern Description: Close-fitting dresses A, B, C have wrap fronts, front tucks, front and back pleats, self-ties, A-line skirt and sleeve variations. A: short flounce sleeves. B: three-quarter length sleeves. C: long flared sleeves and border print. Lengths are 2" above mid-knee.

I made view A


Pattern Sizing:  Available in 8-24.  I cut a generous 14 but ended up taking the skirt in several inches.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Absolutely.  I realized that while I made view A, my fabric matched that from view B

Were the instructions easy to follow?  Very!  An absolute beginner could sew this garment with little no issues.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  I loved everything about this pattern and had no dislikes.

Fabric Used:  A magenta colored ITY purchased from Denver Fabrics online.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:  I had to bring the skirt sides in an inch and half or so.  As a result my front skirt pleats were no longer to the side but rather centered.  Instead of ripping out the seams I decided to leave it as is.  I also finished off the sleeves, skirt hem, and bodice with a rolled edge.  The material was thin and I liked the breezy look and feel of it and thought that a more standard finish would take away from that.


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  I do plan on sewing this again...several times in fact!  I think I can now officially retire vogue 8379, lol.


Conclusion:  A solid well drafted pattern that went together in no time.  The instructions were great and the result was a great dress to wear to my baby sister's graduation.

Bottom Line:
Pattern:  .99
Fabric: 2 ydss @ $2.35/yd
Notions: thread from my stash

Total:  $5.69


Friday, June 11, 2010

Graduation

I feel like I've been running non-stop since early May and it finally seems like things will slow down a bit-at least long enough for me to catch my breath.  One thing that I worked on a few weeks ago was graduation announcements for Baby Sister.  My camera has been temperamental as of late so I've been relying on my camera phone in the meantime.  Here are a couple of pics of the mockup grad announcement that I ended up doing for her.  I wanted them to different from the stock announcement they sell through the school. Also since I made Baby Sister help assemble them I wanted them to be fairly simple to crank out.


I went and raided all the navy cardstock at a local Joann's. I happened to have some gold cardstock at home as well as some heavier weight white paper. I printed the annoucements 2 x 2 on the heavier white paper and used the gold for a a backing.


I originally was going to leave it at that but decided last minute to add an additional piece of white paper behind the gold for an extra pop.  That just meant trimming down the gold.  Thankfully we have an awesome papercutter at work that I used (after hours of course).   Once everything was cut I made a road trip to my Mom's and we set up an assembly line to fold, glue, and stuff.  We were done in about 2 hours and Baby Sister was very pleased.  I forgot to get a picture of a finished announcement but you get the idea.

Baby Sister officially graduates on Saturday and since I couldn't decide what to wear, I made two dresses and hopefully I can get around to posting the reviews soon.

Monday, May 24, 2010

A wedding with McCalls 5570

One of my besties got married this weekend and I was honored to be a bridesmaid. One of my gifts to her was making the flower girl dress. But after spending countless hours on the dress, ask me how many pictures I took? I'll wait.........



























ONE. And it was with my camera phone! So I've spent the morning stalking facebook pics of the wedding hoping to find a few decent ones.  I apologize now for the low picture quality.





Pattern Description: Children's/Girls' Lined Dresses and Sash. So very descriptive right? There are three different bodice variations (sleeveless, cap sleeve, or spaghetti straps) with the same full skirt. The dress is fully lined with tons of ruffles to make the full skirt and finished off nicely with a waist sash.

Pattern Sizing: Available in sizes 2-8. I cut somewhere between the 2-4 range.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were donesewing with it? Yes

 


Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes they were. After a while the construction started to follow a logical process so I ceased to refer to the written instructions and occassionally glanced at the drawings.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? The dress is adorable, what's not to like? But in all honesty I can't say that I was prepared for sewing through so many layers of fabric. I actually broke a couple of needles which is rare for me. That didn't really have anything to do with the pattern itself which appeared to be well drafted. I do wish they would print finished measurements on children's patterns as it was really tough for me to gauge. I will say that sewing the ruffles wasn't all that fun. Particularly when by the end of the reception they were non existent. Little Missy keep pulling her dress up to make it poofier but hey she's four and she still looked adorable even with her dress dragging the floor.

Fabric Used: For the lining I used an ivory china silk, for the dress itself an ivory slipper satin, for the sash a yellow slipper satin, and for the ruffles a green netting.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: None as far as construction.  I did opt to add a purchased green bow to the back of the dress.  I used it to hold the sash in place instead of tying a bow.  It also really help draw all of the wedding colors together.


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I would not sew it again but I would recommend it if you have the patience and time to make it.

Conclusion: Very cute dress that was appropriate for the occassion. Though it took quite a bit of time to make the end result was worth it.

Bottom Line:
1 yd of yellow slipper satin = 4.23

2.5 yds of ivory slipper satin = 10.58

6.5 yds of china silk = 13.70

8 yds of netting = 3.54

1 - 14” zipper =1.70

Total=33.75



Monday, May 10, 2010

Senior Prom and Vogue 2847

Pattern Description: Vogue 2847 Close-fitting (through bust) slightly flared dress in two lengths has foundation with boning and back zipper closure. Wrong side will show on the skirt front pleat. A: shoulder straps. B: strapless.

I made view B which is the floor-length strapless view.

Pattern Sizing: Available in 6-22. I ended up cutting about an inch outside the size 22 pieces.


Baby Sis and her Date

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? No but that was due to some changes that I made. More on that later.

Posing outside their ride

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, the instructions and drawings were very helpful particualary when it came to the foundation. This was my first time making a garment that required that and I think it turned out very well.



The finished bodice foundation. You can see the boning and double fold bias tape finish.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? My sister picked out this pattern and I like it because it was very flattering to her body type and didn't make me want to pull out my hair during construction. I didn't have any dislikes although I will say that if you are larger than a B/C cup you may need to make an FBA. It wasn't necessary for my sister but it may be an issue others run in to.

Fabric Used: A turquoise satin purchased at Joann's.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I ended up making the back a corset instead of installing a zipper. I did this for a couple of reasons-one I had a hard time finding a zipper that was even remotely close to matching the fabric and when I did find one, it wasn't an invisible zipper. So I would have ended up having to do a lapped zipper which I personally dislike on formal wear. Second my sister has a wide back and instead risking a zipper mishap, I figured why not make it more comfortable by doing a corset? That actually sounds like an oxymoron putting corset and comfortable in the same sentence, lol. I also added a couple of inches to the hem due to her height and to give it a more breezy feel.



I love this picture.

Construction: I do not always include this section in my review but I thought this time it may be helpful, particularly with respect the changes that I made. The order of construction has you complete the bodice including attaching the front knot then stitching the skirt front together, make the pleat and then attach the skirt to the bodice. Next is the foundation part which was the longest part in the construction. You stitch all the foundation pieces together and top stitch. You then add single fold bias tape along placement lines, the center front, and all the side seams.


The bodice foundation in progress....

The bias tape houses the boning which in my case I had to remove from the casing in order to get it to fit inside. You finish the bottom edge of the foundation by adding double fold bias tape and stitching. Attach the foundation to the bodice (right sides facing), stitch, fold over and under stitch.

Here is where I deviated from the pattern: I stitched the center back skirt seam up to just above the waist. I then finished the remaining exposed edges with my serger. I fold the edges over twice and stitched down about 1 inch from the edge. I then used an eyelet punch and added 1/8 holes for lacing the corset every 1 ½ inches down and about ½ inch from the edge. During a trial run I felt that the 3/16 holes were too big as when I added the eyelet, not all of the fabric was caught underneath. I then added 3/16 eyelets. For the back modesty panel, I took a leftover piece of fabric that was about 24" x 18" added facing, folded in half and pressed. I then finished the edges with my serger. To attach it, I added snaps to the far side of the eyelets at the top and added 3 evenly spaced snaps at the bottom. I used the leftover double fold bias tape for ribbon. I actually cut it in half and serger the edges to prevent fraying and add durability.


View of the corset back and modesty panel

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I won't sew this again but not because I didn't like it. I do recommend it as I had great results even with the changes that I made. It was a well drafted pattern with great directions.

Conclusion: My sister loved the dress and that's all that matters!



Bottom Line:

Fabric: ~$20
Notions:

Thread ~$3.60
Eyelets $3
Single and double fold bias tape $4
Boning $3
facing from stash

Total in supplies: ~ $34

The look on baby sister's face: PRICELESS

*I purchased an eyelet and snap punch for $20 but I don't usually include tool purchases in the bottom line



Monday, April 19, 2010

Quick Update

Is anyone out there? I know I have a few followers and just in case you were wondering what I've been up to I wanted to proivde a quick update. It's prom/wedding season and as we speak my Sister's prom dress is getting ready to be cut out and stitched up. She selected Vogue 2847 to wear to her senior prom. She chose a beautiful turquoise satin fabric for the dress and is opting for black accessories as her escort is wearing a black tux. I found a perfect matching thread but the zipper was another story. Hopefully I will remember to post pics as I go along.

As soon as I am done whipping that dress up I will be tackling my first piece for a young child. A dear dear friend is getting married next month and as my gift to her I am making the flower girls dress. She said she trusted my judgetment and so to make whatever I felt like. I chose McCall's 5570. The dress will be ivory with a yellow sash. I selected a green netting for the ruffles/petticoat as I wanted to incorporate all of the wedding colors into the dress in some way. Alright that's what's going on in my world. So what are you up to?